November 7-24, 2017
We quickly departed the Cumberland River and after a quick pass through Barkley Canal, we were soon on Kentucky Lake/the Tennessee River. We got to see the beautiful Land Between the Lakes from the water today. We found a great anchorage in Leatherwood Creek, near Dover, TN and settled in for the night. The next day, we saw the remnants of the town that was flooded when Kentucky Lake was formed. Street signs, underwater homes and bridges, and abandoned railroad crossings told the story of the town that used to be. 
We found a sleeply little marina to settle into for the night in Waverly, TN. We quickly saw that we weren’t the only ones with that idea, and the tiny marina suddenly was overcome with five Looper boats. We had a fun night of docktails, despite the chilly weather.
Heading out early the next morning, we had a beautiful fall day on the water. We decided to stop for the night in the cute little town of Clifton, TN. We walked into town and started to see some promise of the warmth that lied ahead, cactus and palms! Rilee was very interested in the pokey things. 
We headed out in the morning, and soon started our leg of the trip on the Tennessee-Tombigbee Waterway (called the Tenn-Tom for short). The Tenn-Tom connects the Tennessee River to the Tombigbee River, and is a canal that was completed in 1985, after over a century of studies and proposals in support of the project. Over the next 450.4 miles to Mobile, we will lock down 341 feet, requiring us to go through 12 locks!
We arrived in Counce, TN, and planned to stay a few days, and take the courtesy car to Shiloh National Park. We were humbled to spend Veterans Day at the park, now a National Cemetery, and the site of a bloody Civil War battle in April, 1862. There is so much history along the rivers, especially Civil War era. Chad is such a history buff, and loving it. We even starting watching Ken Burns’ Civil War series from PBS in the evening where WIFI is available, to learn more about the rich history of the land we are traveling through.
After spending hours at the park, we were ready for some good southern food at the Catfish Hotel. Occupied by Union soldiers during the Battle of Shiloh, the shack served catfish, hushpuppies, and shelter to friends traveling the river. It became a restaurant in 1938 and has been serving great food by the Hagy family since!
After fully exploring the area, we were off. We motored past Goat Island, which really does have goats on it! We decided to check out another marina, to put us closer to our first lock in the morning, and for the electric so we could run the heater. We just can’t shake the cold! The next morning, we headed into our first lock for the day, the Jamie Whitten Lock, with an 84 foot drop! We descended through a total of 4 locks for the day, and decided to anchor in front of the next lock so we could get an early start. We have to be careful anchoring, since when the dams were built, the trees and stumps were only cut to below water level, leaving a hazard for anchors to snag on. We used a trip line to help prevent losing our anchor should we become hung up, and luckily we never needed to use it to help retrieve our anchor.
The next day, we descended through another 3 locks, and decided on a marina again for the night for heat and reprovisioning. We found a really cool antebellum mansion in Waverly, MS that we toured. The tour guide shared stories of the ghost of a little girl that is reported to wander to stair cases of the large home, where she sadly fell to her death many, many years ago.
The next day, we decided on a shorter day with only 1 lock, and found a great anchorage near the Tom Bevill Lock, with a neat visitors center. We arrived early in the afternoon, and got to check out the museum and US Snagboat Montgomery, which worked by steam power until 1982 to remove snags (debris) from the rivers.
The next day saw 2 more locks, and another great anchorage. Morning brought the end of the Tenn-Tom Waterway, and the beginning of our final stretch of the rivers on the Black Warrior-Tombigbee Waterway. This next stretch is particularly sparse for marinas (in fact this is the last one) and facilities, so we stopped in Demopolis, AL to refuel, re-provision, and get some rest. On the way in, we pass the beautiful white cliffs of Epes! The trees covered in Spanish moss and the field of cotton next to the marina really let you know you are in the south!
After a few days we start down the river. We find our best bet for an anchorage outside of the channel, in the protection of a bridge abutment. We are one of three sailboats tied together, and we spend a quiet evening chatting over some apple cider and rum, until it gets too cold and we all sneak below to warm up. The next day, we arrive to well-known Bobby’s Fish Camp. Chad somehow shoe-horned the boat into a tiny open spot on the dock, I still don’t know how he did it! The place isn’t well known for its amenities or service. It’s more of a necessary stop to refuel than anything else, and is nothing more than a dock with electric, and a small restaurant on site that serves catfish and all things fried. Still a neat stop, and one place all Loopers have as a common stop. We met an adorable stray dog on the docks that desperately wanted to play with Rilee, but Rilee didn’t think that was a good idea. We tossed him some glucosamine treats and hoped his bum leg would feel better.
We head out early the next morning, on Thanksgiving, to make our final anchorage before Mobile. We descend our final lock, and find ourselves in very new territory now. For the first time, we are in tidal salt water. This final stretch is also tough to find a good anchorage with depth for our sailboat, and something decent nearby to take the dog potty without getting eaten by an alligator. We are on alligator watch, but still haven’t seen one, though we know they are there! It must be too cold for them too! We settle on an anchorage and on our way in, are greeted by another Looper boat and are invited over for Thanksgiving dinner. We spent a great night with three other Loopers, sharing stories, food, and drinks. What a cool way to spend a holiday, if you have to be away from family!
We all pull anchor early the next morning, ready to get to Mobile and civilization! The promise of the warm Gulf air pushes us on. Slowly, through the swamp land of Alabama, the skyscrapers of Mobile suddenly appear. Thankful for a less-busy holiday weekend, we pass through the busy port of Mobile, full of commercial and cruise boat traffic. We pass by new Navy Destroyers fresh out of the boat yard. After a nail-biting trip through the skinny (shallow) channel across Mobile Bay, we arrive at Turner Marine where we are reunited with our mast and many other Loopers we have met along the way.
Two months into our trip, this is the end of the road for the rivers, and we are ready to have our mast stepped and we are ready to SAIL!
